PLEASE NOTE:
Hpi has made a running change in the gear shaft that is coming from the differentials to the dog bones. There are three versions of the MT2.
The Original MT2 RS4, the MT2 18SS, and the current model MT2 G3.0.
We have now seen all 3 versions running two different types of differential shafts. You may need to update the differential shaft and or gears.
If your front differential shaft has a removable cup joint and looks like picture A and B. You do NOT need to purchase anything extra.
A
B
If your differential shaft has a permanent drive cup such as picture C. You will need to purchase ONE new shaft or upgrade the gears front and rear as an option.
Below is a list of the parts needed to complete this conversion:
The simplest option is one new differential shaft for the front conversion. HPI 86810 located ***HERE*** .
If you purchase this shaft you will have to grind down the outer diameter to 5mm or drill out one yoke to 6mm.
Or you can upgrade the final gear sets front and rear with the following options:
HPI 86336 Heavy-Duty Final Gear Set ***HERE***
Or you can use the Axial AX30402 Heavy-Duty Under-Drive gear set ***HERE***
C
Basic online directions:
Included in the kit are the following items.
CKRC CNC Aluminum chassis
CNC aluminum upper deck
2 CNC aluminum motor mounts
associated front bumper
traxxas slash front body post
traxxas slash rear body post
(2) servo mounts
2 metal yokes
2 pairs of plastic drive shafts
1 tekno battery tray
(2) velcro straps
(4) 3x12mm flat screws, (6) 3x16mm button heads screws, (6) 3mm nuts, (3) 3mm washers, (4) 3x10mm button screws, (2) 3x12mm flat screws, (4) 3x20mm cap screws
Major Tools Required:
drill
3mm or 1/8" drill bit
dremel, belt sander, grinder, or ??
CA glue
Required:
Any 12mm slash wheel and tire combo will work. Use slash front wheels up front and slash rears for the rear. The rear of the MT2 is naturally wider than the front stock, so this setup matches the front and rear width. Any 1/10 short course body will work.
A. Clean that nitro pig.
Get all the nastiness out of there. Remove all the electronics, and nitro engine gear.
B. Body Mounts.
The stock body mounts can be used depending on the body you choose. We have supplied the traxxas mounts for strength and fitment to most bodies. Start by installing the rear body mount (1914x) to the rear shock tower. Surprisingly it bolts on with out modification. Mount it to the backside of the shock mount. Install the 2- 3x20mm screws from the rear and mount the 3mm nuts on the inside.
C. Body mounts.
Now install the front body mount (1914x) to the front shock tower. You will have to drill two 3mm holes if you would like to get it as low as possible. Remove the front shocks and then install the 2- 3x20mm screws through the front shocks, shock tower, and then into the new body mount.
D. Battery mount.
Next we are going to install the battery mount to the chassis.
(optional) There are 2 plastic nubs coming off the bottom of the battery box. Grind these nubs flat. this will lower the battery box. Next install the 2 velcro straps through the battery box. Install the box to the passenger side of the chassis using the (2) 3x16mm flat screws, (2) 3mm washers, and (2) 3mm nuts. The screws should come from the bottom up.
E. Suspension installation:
Install the front and rear suspension and differentials to the chassis using the stock 3mm screws.
F: Center diff installation:
This step may be confusing, use the pictures for reference.
Our current set up is 52T spur and 11T (mod 1) pinion (**HERE**) . The lowest gearing that will fit is a 52 tooth spur with a 11T pinion.
Remove the spur gear, bearings, and slipper from the stock plastic carrier mounts. You will need to remove the stock out drive cups and bearings from this shaft.
Next, the front output of the that shaft will need to be ground down on both sides. This will allow the sets screws in the provided yoke to have two flat spots to lock onto. The side of the spur with the adjustment spring is the front.
1. Grind both sides of the shaft, 180 degrees from the other side.
2. One of the supplied yokes also needs to be ground down. Remove the stepping as seen in this picture.
3. Install the modified shaft into the New front aluminum center bulkhead. This is the one that does NOT have the motor mount.
4. Re-install the bearing on the (outside) and then install the ground down yoke using loctite. Make sure the yoke is set up "against" the bearing to retain it.
5. Install the rear of the shaft into the New rear motor mount. Install the bearing on the (outside) and then re-install the stock drive cup. Make sure the yoke is set up against the bearing to retain it. Pictured is the same shafts used in the rear. This is NOT required.
6. Install the differential and new mounts into the chassis as pictured. Use the (4) 3x12mm flat screws provided. Install the rear dog bone at this time.
G. Front Drive line:
remove the provided male and female drive shafts from the kit. You need to cut the ears off of one of the female shafts. You will need to CA glue this female shaft to one male shaft. Put two small drops of CA glue on the end of the male shaft and then slide the female shaft on approximately a 1/2" to 5/8". set it aside to dry. Once dried install the custom shaft to the yoke on the front out drive of the center diff. Slide another male shaft into that and mount it to the provided front yoke. Install the yokes to the differentials. NOTE: this shaft should not be glued together and should slide in and out as pictured.
Pictured is the same shafts used in the rear. This is NOT required.
H: Steering: Install the steering system to the chassis using the stock hardware. Install the servo to the new provided servo mounts with the stock screws. Next install the servo to the chassis.
I. Upper deck: Install the new aluminum upper deck with the supplied (4) 3x10mm buttons in the center and (2) 3x16mm button head screws at the front and rear.
J. Front Bumper:
The bumper is not a direct bolt on. This step will require some creativity and fabrication. The lower holes for the bumper need to be drilled and counter sunk as pictured. The upper screws can also be used by drilling (2) 3mm holes into the stock hpi bumper brace. Use these pictures for reference.
K: Final:
Install your motor and electronics. Install your battery and set your ride height.
Race setup:
In the pictures provided, we are running multiple upgrades on our race trucks. None of them were truly needed, we just did them for strength and adjustment.
We have added HPI Purple front springs (**HERE**) and 3/8" shock spacers front and rear to level the truck.
We have also switched from using grease in the front and rear diffs to using 200K silicon diff fluid. We are using the 200K like a grease and not completely filling the differential.
Other than these modifications the truck will have more on and off throttle steering than anything you have ever driven. Its dialed!
